PARIS (AP) 鈥� Maria Grazia Chiuri鈥檚 Dior collection took a sporty turn, blending athletic prowess with an urban menace on Tuesday. The Paris show鈥檚 stripped-down designs evoked a 鈥�60s sci-fi aesthetic, reminiscent of Star Trek, but with an edge鈥攄aring, asymmetrical shapes paired with knee-high boots that flirted with danger.
As a live archer launched arrows into a target mid-show, VIPs such as Natalie Portman and French First Lady Brigitte Macron erupted in applause, heightening the collection's drama.
Here are some highlights of ready-to-wear for spring 2025, including a starry Saint Laurent:
Dior's combat
Chiuri鈥檚 intent was clear from the start: a nod to the power and autonomy of the female form. With a clear reference to Christian Dior鈥檚 iconic Amazone dress from the early 1950s, Chiuri reinterpreted the silhouette with sleek, athletic lines. It echoed the spirit of the recent Paris Olympics, as models walked in skin-tight black tops with geometric cut-outs, circular cutaway patterns, and lace-up boot sneakers. There was a dynamic tension between freedom of movement and structured control 鈥� a recurring theme in Chiuri鈥檚 work, which often explores the balance between comfort and couture.
Dualities were evident in the collection鈥檚 black-and-white palette, a nod to the iconic Miss Dior logo, stretched to graphic extremes. The monochrome bombers 鈥� some accented with bright red details 鈥� projected a combat-ready urban vibe, while an all-white tuxedo with dangerously sharp fastenings evoked a touch of Hannibal Lecter menace.
Metallic accents, from shimmering embroidery to butterfly motifs, punctuated the otherwise severe palette, adding a touch of delicacy to the sharpness of the designs. Lightweight evening dresses in jersey, enhanced with shiny embellishments, underscored Chiuri鈥檚 ongoing quest to marry elegance with ease 鈥� an ethos that has defined her tenure at Dior.
Yet, for all its urban grit, the show wasn鈥檛 without its moments of softer, playful contrast. Breton-striped swimwear offered a surprising, and ultimately incongruous, interlude in an otherwise aggressive, urban lineup. This attempt to balance Dior鈥檚 classic femininity with a gritty, youth-oriented aesthetic felt sometimes forced. The contrast between the house's refined heritage and the try-hard urban appeal at times seemed as if the collection were straining to capture a younger audience at the expense of its core identity.
Chiuri鈥檚 latest offering, much like her past work, refuses to adhere to a singular theme. Asymmetry, athleticism, and autonomy were at this collection's heart.
Archery and artistry at Dior
One of the most notable moments of Dior鈥檚 show came from a live performance by an artist called SAGG Napoli, who incorporates archery into her work. Positioned in a sealed tunnel at the center of the runway, the artist with rippling shoulder muscles used a high-tech bow to shoot arrows, symbolizing the harmony between body and mind. This performance was a nod to the themes of strength and athleticism that have been central to Chiuri鈥檚 collection, inspired in part by the Paris 2024 Olympics.
The display of skill and precision was met with applause from the audience, including VIPs such as Aya Nakamura, Jennifer Garner, and Rosamund Pike.
Natalie Portman, when asked by the Associated Press if she felt like an Amazon, said, 鈥淚 am a very small person so I鈥檓 the opposite, but the spirit, is alive and well.鈥�
Chiuri鈥檚 decision to include the performance highlighted her ongoing focus on the intersection of fashion, sport, and gender equality.
The phrase 鈥淢ay the building of a strong mind and a strong body be the greatest work I have ever made鈥� appeared on the set, reinforcing the message of strength and empowerment throughout the show.
Saint Laurent strikes brooding note with preppy, 70s flair
A-listers Gwyneth Paltrow and Rami Malek added a touch of after-dark star power to a moody Saint Laurent show on the Left Bank on Tuesday night. Anthony Vaccarello, continuing his well-known explorations of exaggerated proportions, took his penchant for oversize to bold new heights with shoulders so wide they felt architectural.
The collection felt introspective, with its preppy glasses, 70s-inspired shades, and razor-sharp suits channeling the late, great Yves Saint Laurent himself. The silk foulard motifs on slinky gowns, combined with statement gold-plaited earrings, exuded a tactile elegance reminiscent of Vaccarello's earlier, more refined collections, while subtly referencing the house鈥檚 historic obsession with opulence.
The designer's trademark minimalism was present, especially in the stripped-back, controlled silhouettes of the opening looks. As with prior collections, his reliance on precise tailoring and quiet luxury gave the show a deliberate, restrained feel 鈥攖hough it leaned too heavily on safety. Critics of past seasons who noted his tendency toward oversimplification would find echoes of that here, as the opening half of the show.
Yet, as has often been the case with Vaccarello, the collection鈥檚 true brilliance emerged in its latter part. Taking more risks, he introduced rich, sumptuous textures 鈥� velvet, lace, and gleaming metallics 鈥� in a palette of deep golds, blues and reds. These more luxurious elements, combined with bold ruffled collars and sunray pleats, provided a striking contrast. This final burst of creativity echoed his 70s-era historical references while feeling fresh and contemporary.
Anrealage inflates, fusing surreal with space-age
Kunihiko Morinaga鈥檚 Anrealage never fails to surprise, and this Tuesday鈥檚 collection was no exception. The show opened with a visually striking parachute design, inflating to create a whimsical fusion of Elizabethan elegance and Haribo-inspired playfulness. These inflated silhouettes immediately set the tone for a collection that danced between past and future, while geometric space-age metal adornments served as bold hairpieces 鈥� deepening the anachronism with echoes of historic coiffure.
Morinaga, known for his technological prowess and futurism, blended traditional couture with avant-garde experimentation. A circular puffer jacket鈥攄istorted in shape鈥攃alled to mind the outlandish creations of Viktor & Rolf couture, pushing the limits of wearable fashion. As the show progressed, vibrant clown-like silhouettes in vivid, candy-colored hues crescendoed.
Yet, not everything was flawless. The tech glitches that haunted his past shows were absent here, but Morinaga鈥檚 intense focus on spectacle sometimes left questions about wearability. The inflatable, exaggerated forms were striking but not exactly street-ready. However, these bold pieces certainly reaffirmed Anrealage鈥檚 mission to dazzle with innovation, much like his viral color-changing collection worn by Beyonc茅 last year.
Vaquera fetes 10 years with subversive twists on staples
Vaquera marked its 10th anniversary with a bold yet introspective show, blending its rebellious DNA with a sharper focus on wearability. Known for pushing boundaries, designers Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee are evolving 鈥� without losing their edge. This spring, the duo zeroed in on what they called 鈥渘ew basics,鈥� but true to Vaquera style, these were far from ordinary.
Think black bubble miniskirts with built-in bike shorts, bullet-bra tops, and button-downs twisted with strapless bras. These looks walk a fine line between fetish and function, embodying the brand鈥檚 signature playfulness while still appealing to its loyal base. Vaquera鈥檚 take on 鈥渂asic鈥� remains anything but 鈥� and it鈥檚 working. Their collections continue to fly off e-commerce platforms.
But beneath the show鈥檚 rebellious flair, there鈥檚 a sense of recalibration. After a decade of defying the rules, DiCaprio and Taubensee are adapting to fashion鈥檚 financial pressures. Gone are the giant Tiffany-blue dustbag dresses from their breakout days. Now, they鈥檙e crafting pieces that balance artistic vision with commercial success. Vaquera鈥檚 punk spirit is intact, but it鈥檚 growing up.
Yet, their subversive streak remains undeniable. Denim jeans featured interlocking Vs, oversized gold chain prints, and winged Pegasus motifs, offering a cheeky wink at luxury brands. Kitten-heel cowboy boots and quirky pumps rounded out the collection, adding a sophisticated edge to their signature disruption.
Vaquera may be entering its second decade, but their ethos is clear: stay bold, stay rebellious鈥攋ust with a little more polish. As they carve out their future, they鈥檙e proving that even the most rebellious can evolve without losing their spark.
Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press
